This week we’re going to revisit the STX Stallion Omega I strung up here.  Here the focus is on adjusting the pocket as it breaks in. This is Part 2 of breaking-in a traditional pocket.

Breaking-In A Traditional Pocket, Part 2

Alright, here’s what you need:

1. A strung traditional pocket 
2. Patience….

So, let’s take a look at this video so you can see a comparison between a pocket that is breaking in and mesh.  Until the pocket sags like a broken-in mesh pocket, you’ll notice a tougher time receiving passes. They’ll tend to pop around a bit.  This is where wallball is important.  

Do you see how the cross lace is “biting” into the leather?  When this happens, you can stop stretching the pocket in a stretcher/ball and butter knife.  Again, wallball and when you think you’re done, wallball more.  

Shooters – This is a process that you’ll need to do throughout the life of the pocket.  Here is my favorite method. Untie all the shooters but leave them in the head. Start throwing and after 10-20 reps, tighten the top shooter.  Throw some more and when you are satisfied with the tension, move to the second shooter. Repeat until all have been knotted. Note, you may have to do this every time until it’s game ready.  Just part of the process.

Next week’s article is another hybrid pocket… two of them you could say… stay tuned!

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Alright, it’s time for another tutorial! This time we’re taking the concept of the Rock-It Pocket and combining that with the women’s ladder pocket. Now, the center channel of the Rock-It Pocket has always been one of my favorite traditional pockets. When done correctly, it gives you great hold and moves the ball quickly out of the pocket. It’s very similar to the ladder pocket middle but I think it’s sturdier and more consistent. I’ve always wanted to put an RP style pocket in a women’s stick. Now, I finally can. I ran the concept and earlier versions by three of the best stringers out there:

Liz Hogan

Liz Hogan Instagram

Robin Brown 

Robin Brown Instagram

Katie Facciola (Foss!)

Katie Facciola Instagram

After a few changes to the design from the ladies above, I was able to come up with something I think encompasses all the best parts from the two pockets.  Note, I did not do a traditional top coil and bottom saddle on this version. Why? I do not think their beneficial and wanted to reduce excess weight as much as possible.  It’s also why I swapped the outer leathers for paracord runners. Now, you may see a top coil tutorial sometime in the future….

Stringing Scale: I’ll rate the difficulty on stringing these pockets from 3 to 5.  1 being fairly easy and 5 being the most difficult. With all the double interlocks and tensioning, this may take you a few passes if you’ve never done one before.  

Rock-It Ladder Pocket Tutorial

Here is what you are going to need:

1. A women’s head.  STX Crux 500 
2. 2 Leathers.  Slate Gopher Leathers.
3. 2 Paracord or Top Lace Runners (about 22 inches) 
4. Crosslace.  1 center piece at 12 ft and 2 side pieces at 14 ft
5. Sidewall.  2 Pieces (normal sidewall length)
6. Shooters.  I used 2 Blue
7. Needle Nose Pliers.  These are critical for getting the crosslace lace through the double interlocks.
8. Ladies TradiTree (We did just spotlight Hank earlier this month)

Step 1:

Install your sidewall, outer runners, and leathers.  Remember to prestretch your leathers.  

Step 2:  

Install your TradiTree.  If you have never strung this pocket before, I suggest trying the Tradi out.  It requires a lot of knots and can be a hassle to fix tensioning after it’s done.  

Step 3:

Middle channel time!  Here we are running the crosslace from the top sidewall hole in the head bringing it through the runner and leather and tying a double interlock knot on the opposite leather.   Double interlocks can be tricky at first. Run the crosslace OVER the leather and behind and then OVER the leather again. Gently slide the knot tight and move to the leather to the right.  As you’ll see in the video, depending on the length of the head, you’ll either have 8 or 9 interlocks down each leather. Work your way down the pocket and tie off at the bottom. 

Step 4: 

Split your outer piece of crosslace in half at the top runner (tie of the left side so it doesn’t move).   Here we’re going to run down the head doing a double interlock on the leather and a single interlock on the runner.  You need to have the double interlock lay flat (not look wonky). In order to do this, you will go UNDER the leather and through the previous interlock and the over and UNDER the leather again.  It’s the exact opposite of what you did in the middle. The Single interlocks should lay on the runner in between the double interlock in the leather. Work your way down and tie off the crosslace.  

Step 5: 

You have 2 options here.  You can finish the left side or begin the inner right side.  For me, I’d suggest doing the inner right so you can keep the Rock-It Ladder pocket consistent as possible.  If you do one side and then the other, you will sometimes get a pocket that pulls to one side more.  

Remember due to the double interlock pattern, this pocket is asymmetrical, we fix this by placing the single interlocks are parallel to the other runner.  It will look odd at first but will keep all the diamonds uniform. Complete the inner side and then tie up both outer sides.  

Step 6: 

Review the interlocks to make sure all of them are lying flat and properly tensioned.  Remove the TradiTree and give the pocket another once over. Pound the pocket in (I used a bat to lock everything in place) and check to make sure it’s legal.

Step 7: 

Shooters….You’ll need them.  I highly suggest you hit the wall or rebounder before you finally cut all crosslace and sidewall to your preferred length.  

Step 8:

Feedback!  I want your input on this pocket.  Do you prefer the coil and saddle for this?  Do you want tutorials for those? Do you think the pocket is legal/illegal?  Do you think you can do a better take? I’d love to see what you all come up with.

Thanks for reading!  Use #thegopherproject on your string ups to earn a future spotlight or string up of the week!

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This week we’re going to look into how I break in a traditional pocket. Note, how I do this may be different from others, there’s no “right” way. It’s important to remember that breaking in a traditional pocket is a gradual process, it’s not something you can do over night.  However, once broken in and properly maintained, you’ll get a pocket that you’ll never forget.

How To Break In A Traditional Pocket

Necessary Items

Alright, here’s what you need:

1. A strung traditional pocket (kind of important here)…Here I am using my newly strung STX Stallion Omega
2. Water (bucket or tap)
3. Either a pocket screw or ball and butter knife
4. Patience, this is key

Before we begin, we need to take quick step backwards to address your leathers.  The most important rule is to use good quality leathers (shameless Gopher Lax plug).  The second is to properly stretch your leathers.  This will allow the pocket to break in consistently and also test the quality of your leathers.  If you don’t stretch beforehand, the leathers will stretch and break in at different spots throughout your entire head.  This will lead to a very inconsistent pocket. Ladies, this goes for you as well. Stretch your leathers for the same reason.

The Process

Step 1 – Wall Ball or Shoot Around

Note, during the initial break in, your shots and passes are going to be all over the place.  Avoid tinkering with the shooters until after you’ve finished that session. Typically, what I do with the shooters is leave them in the head with descending tension (top the tightest and bottom the loosest).  Spend some time on the wall, this is the key to a good break in.

Step 2 – Get the pocket wet

Now, I know what you’re thinking.  Water and traditional pockets are a no no.  You may be slightly correct but in the break in, water is your friend.  Again, if you’re using good quality leathers, water will not ruin them. You do not have to drown the pocket, get it wet so the leathers absorb the water.  No bucket? Run it under the faucet until the pocket is wet.

Step 3 – Pocket Stretching

Use your favorite method. Here I’ll pound the pocket out for a minute with a baseball bat (similar to how you do it with mesh) and then throw it in a stretcher. Don’t have a stretcher? A ball and butter knife work just as well (kids, check with your parents on the knife part first)….

Step 4 – Observations

When you stretch the pocket, if the leathers are tight (not loose) then leave it over night to dry.  If the leathers are loose, SLIGHTLY tighten the leathers. If you over tighten, you’ll create stress points at the bottom of the pocket and create a potential snap point. Are your sidewalls loosening? Here’s where you tighten those up. How do you avoid that issue at the start? I suggest double interlocking the sidewall. If they loosen slightly, it’ll only be that area.

Step 5 – Is it working?

You can tell the pocket is breaking in once the cross lace starts biting into the leather.  Once this happens, stop with the water treatment and continue the stretch up the pocket isn’t stiff anymore.

Step 6 – Follow up

From time to time your pocket will expand, use the stretcher to reshape and shallow the pocket to your desired “legal” depth.

Step 7 – Wait!  What about the shooters????

This will be an ongoing process. You need to remember that the top shooter needs to be the tightest and the bottom the loosest. If you’re wall-balling and something is off, loosen all the shooters and then tighten the top.  When that’s working, tighten the second, etc…

It’s important to use patience with this. I’ve had traditional pockets that I’ve broken in in a week and some that have taken a month. Go slow, put the reps in, if you ever have questions, I’m here to help!

Next week’s article is a real Rock-It…..I’ll be putting my spin on a ladder pocket in an STX Crux 500.  Stay tuned!

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A couple of months back, we put up a couple of tradmesh pockets photos on Instagram that I dubbed Trameshional. Perhaps that name is stupid, but I’d never seen this variation of tradmesh done before, even though I’m sure it has been. People asked for a tradmesh stringing tutorial, I took my sweet time in making one, and now it’s here. Maybe you’ll still care?

Trameshional Tradmesh Stringing Tutorial

Here’s the lowdown on this trameshional pocket:

– The ball tends to sit right where the mesh intersects with the traditional. If you want a high pocket, use four or five mesh rows. If you want a mid pocket, use five or six mesh rows. For a low pocket, use 6 or 7 mesh rows. Whatever your preferred set up may be, it could take a couple attempts to get this one right.

– I tend to use a softer mesh for this, like old broken in regular mesh, StringKing soft, or broken in wax mesh. Hard mesh should work too, but I haven’t tried it. Let me know how it goes if you do.

– Baggy traditional will be disastrous. The transition from sitting on traditional to shooting off mesh needs to be seamless, so you don’t develop a jerky motion or thrown unpredictable passes. Make sure the traditional portion (in particular the runners) is not too loose.

– Channel that mesh! If you can string a good channel pocket you’re halfway there. Just don’t give it too much channel. There is such a thing by the way.

– Try new things. The world according to this variation of the pocket is only starting to unfold before us. Come up with your own improvements, and find another way of solving the same problems. This is only the beginning as one of you will come up with something crazy. I can feel it already.

For more stringing videos, check out our Tutorials sections on LaxAllStars and YouTube:

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Today we’re picking up where we left the off in the recent spotlight with Lars (AKA Sidewall Jedi). We’re going to look at another option to stringing to the inside with David Swartz (AKA Smashtime Strings): the inside weave!

This technique applies the concept of stringing to the inside, but involves running the sidewall string down a sidewall hole and back up the one above in order to “anchor” the mesh to the head.  If you string to the inside, I highly recommend this option!

What you’ll need for the Inside Weave

1.  Any lacrosse head
We’re going to use the Bone STX Hammer 500 for this tutorial.

2.  Lacrosse mesh
We’re using an unreleased version of STX Memory mesh I’ve been saving for a while.

3.  Sidewall string
Three pieces in normal length, ideally.

4.  Shooting strings
We’ll be using one shooting cord and one normal shooter.

5.  Bottom string
It’s kind of kind of hard to finish stringing a solid pocket without one of these, right?!

Follow along with this Stringing Tutorial!

Learn the Inside Weave now:

PRO TIP: The important part to remember with this string up is that you are SI’ing (special interlock) the mesh to this inside of the head and not the bottom rail.

Wrapping up the iWeave with Smashtime

I took some time to talk stringing techniques surrounding this tutorial with David Swartz. Below you’ll find a snippet of our conversation! Stay tuned this weekend for the full interview with “your favorite stringer’s favorite stringer!”

Kevin: Stringing to the inside vs what we just did… do you think there is a benefit to the inside weave?

David: It allows you to place a diamond between the holes, so you can actually mix both styles, double inside to get the diamond right on the sidewall hole or weaved inside to get it in between. You can use a shorter string with weaved inside. Double inside can be easier for heads that have fewer sidewall holes but most all heads now have enough for weaved inside.

Kevin: Your hanging top string (used in this tutorial) is different… do you use this solely on defensive heads?

David: No, I use it on all types of heads. The topstring is the foundation of a pocket and fundamental in determining possible pocket shapes. So, the exact shape of the topstring I use changes based on the head and pocket shape I’m trying to achieve. Picking the same 9d topstring over and over eliminates so many possibilities. This is the kind of nerdy stuff I am into and you can find on my Instagram. #topstringsarethenewsidewalls

Thank you for reading. Remember to tag all string ups with #TheGopherProject to earn String Up of the Week honors!

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Today we’re reclaiming a lacrosse head. You can choose any lacrosse head and follow along.

My goal is here is to take a head that wasn’t the commercial hit (that doesn’t mean it was a failure by the way) and see if I can construct a pocket that could turn this into a gamer. There is only one rule. The head has to be stiff to begin with. If the head warps or bends easy, we’re just going to leave that alone. So, let’s start….

Materials Required For Reclaiming:

1. Any used or pre-owned lacrosse head ( I chose the Savage)
2. Mesh (I chose Firethreads USA Eleven Mesh)
3. Sidewall string

For this initial reclaiming project, I selected the Tribe7 Savage. The “knock” on this head was the rounded scoop and wider top 1/3. Even with the rounded scoop, you can still pull in ground balls. This isn’t the rounded lip Octane or even the Joule Ares so that’s where the “perception” did this head some harm. Now the top 1/3 is wide and lacks sidewall holes, that’s an issue but not a deal breaker.

Choosing a Lacrosse Head

I really chose the Savage head because every so often there’s a lacrosse head released that’s not the commercial success expected. This was one of them.

There is a myriad of things that could lead to this type occurrence. Sometimes, the head has a design flaw or isn’t strong enough. With heads like this, there is little you can do. You live and learn and make the corrections on the next one.

However, public perception also plays a factor into how well a head sells. A company could design the greatest head on the planet but if it doesn’t pass the court of public opinion, it’ll sometimes fade out of existence. Now, all heads have to look great in addition to play great. Back in the day, we played with boat oars that were as deep as a tennis racket, not any more.

Choosing Lacrosse Mesh

Why did I choose Firethreads mesh? Simple, I wanted to string this with a Chenango top string to pull that pocket closer to the sidewall. I also strung a low pocket in this to keep the ball in the mid/bottom section of the head. The Firethreads provided the hold and the low pocket created a faster release. Shooters? Nope, not in this one. If a head is strung with mesh and has the right tension, shooters aren’t needed. I liked the release already….

Now it’s your turn to reclaim a lacrosse head! Which one do you choose and what route do you go from there? Let us know in the comments section or use hashtag #TheGopherProject on social media!

Watch my latest video for even greater detail:

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This week we’re taking a stab at the Revolving Doerr Pocket.  It’s mainly a defensive pocket. It was created by Johns Hopkins defenseman Rob Doerr back in the mid-1990s. It’s a high hold, lower whip string-up.  When strung right, it never looks symmetrical after it’s broken in. Let’s face it… it’s a pocket only a pole could love.  

First, let’s get a little background on the man behind the pocket.  Rob Doerr was a two-time All-American at Johns Hopkins and the MLL Defensive Player of the Year in 2001 with the Bayhawks.  Luckily, one of my teammates is friends with Rob and set up an introduction. I remember reading about Rob’s pocket back in the e-lacrosse days.  Since you can no longer access the site (or even find a picture of his pocket) this was the perfect chance to go straight to the source. How did Rob come up with the pocket?  He and two buddies (who went to Towson and worked for Bachrach) experimenting with several pockets until they found one that worked for Rob’s style.   

They created a pocket that allowed the ball to sit directly below the shootings strings and fit his vertical style.  Not sure what that style is? Click this link and skip to the 8:20 mark and see…. 

The story of Rob Doerr’s pocket contains an important message to stringers of all levels: experiment. While you may have more failures than successes, when you do it right, it’ll be a grand slam (I know… I know. Baseball analogy but let’s just move past that). 

Now the name, how did Rob come up with it? Easy! He didn’t. Someone coined the term and he didn’t even know it until he’d been using the pocket for a while.   

Even better than some video of Rob playing, I got pics of the head he used in college. This is the first time since the e-lacrosse days that I’ve seen an actual pic of his original string up.  

Revolving Doerr Pocket Materials

1. A lacrosse head.  Here we are using a dyed ECD Rebel Graphene D
2. Two leathers (Here I’ll show you how to use “junk leathers.”. Also visit this article on ideas for recycling leathers as well).
3. Crosslace.  Two pieces for the center (about four feet each), two pieces for the outer section (about three feet each) and two pieces for the inner section (about three feet each).  This will give you excess but it’s better to have too much than not enough.
4. Sidewall.  Normal length
5. Shooters.  Three at normal length
6. Either a pocket screw or Traditree to help with the tensioning on the sides.  

Step 1: 

Sidewall.  I use my normal method and double interlock each knot to keep it tight to the head even after break in.  

Step 2: 

Leathers…..have a batch of leathers that have that plastic/patent leather feel on one side?  Here’s how you can salvage them. Flip them over so the rough section is on the ball side instead of at the back of the head.  Otherwise the leathers are best used for something not lacrosse related.  

Step 3:

Take the center pieces of crosslace and tie a knot (in one end of each.  Thread them through the top sidewall hole and then through each leather. Pull to the opposite leather and double interlock (I feel this keeps the center track from shifting around).   Continue this for 8 interlock and tie off in the two outer throat openings.

Step 4: 

Here’s where you want to insert the pocket screw or tradi for the next part    Now we are going to do the outer cross lace, tie off on the 1st scoop hole closest to the sidewall.  Here we are going to loop to the sidewall and double interlock that knot (to keep shifting to a minimum).  The trick here is to make sure the loop is in the middle of the scoop hole you tied off on. This will help keep the pocket symmetrical.   You want to do 5 loops down the sidewall and tie off at the bottom. 

Step 5: 

Start in the same scoop hole as the outer section and interlock to the first section on the leather and over to the first loop.  From here, you are going to do two interlocks to every loop working each side at the same time to keep the tension correct. Work all the way down the head and tie off in the bottom outer throat holes.  

Step 6:

Adjust any tensioning and put shooters in! Hit the wall and break it in. Enjoy the Revolving Doerr Pocket!

Remember to tag all string ups with #TheGopherProject to earn weekly spotlights!

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This month, the spotlight is squarely on Martin Dandy aka Dandy Dyes!  Now if you’ve been on Instagram over the last few years, you’ll more than certainly know Dandy Dyes.  If haven’t been on Instagram, I highly suggest looking up his account (@dandydyes). It’s worth the “trip.” He’s our spotlight on this week’s edition of #TheGopherProject.

So, what makes Martin so good at dyeing?  That’s difficult to answer because what makes his dyes so exceptional is a collection of all the parts.   For me, if I have to sit there for a few minutes and look at “how” a dyer did something on a head, it’s because they’ve done something really well.  I do that on nearly all Martin’s dyes.  

Let’s get a little insight on Martin and Dandy Dyes….

Kevin– “Let’s start with a softball question, what’s your favorite vinyl/dye to use?”

Martin–  “White Oracle 651 12×12 sheets.  I like dealing with sheets because they don’t get curled up on the mats like rolls do.  I like white because it’s the cheapest. I use Rit for mostly everything because I’m old and I like to go the store to buy things.  I’ll use Laxdip for Black, Navy, and Grey.

Kevin– “From start to finish, what’s the average time you spend on a typical dye?”  

Martin–  “A quick dye is like 2-4 hours.  The stuff that kind of “put me on the map” takes 6-10 hours.  That includes a lot of computer time.”

Kevin– “You’ve been churning out dyes for Pros, Companies, and players at a high rate, what’s your typical lead time?”  

Martin– “Lead time is typically 3-4 weeks.  Which can turn into 4-5, if you don’t like it, I’ll send it back.  I understand.”

Kevin– “Favorite style to dye?”

Martin– “I love tri-fades, they are the best looking and will be forever classic.”

Kevin– “Anything you want to say to the community?”

Martin– “I just want to thank everyone for the support.  The community has been great, from people who love the work, to the people who do what I do.  If you have a question, hit me up.” 

Kevin– “One of the things you do so well is color mix, how much trial and error did that take?”

Martin– “Honestly, I just throw it in a pot and see what happens.  It’s really not as complicated as it may seem. The most important thing is to be aware of colors these dyes will turn if you add too much powder.  Keep a pot of black just incase you want to get it a hair darker.”

Let’s address color mixing for this section of the spotlight, it’s not as easy as it seems.  Currently, there are a myriad of color options available from the dye companies. However, there are a select few colors that are not available.  For example, maroon is one that is tricky. You need to mix a few colors and even then, each head will take that color differently. Several months ago, Martin and I had a discussion on getting the green I use in my logo (the non Laxallstars version).   So, we’re going to test this out on a Warrior Evo 2 (whip 2) head.  

Here’s what you’ll need:

1.  A Lacrosse head

2.  Kelly Green and Dark Rit Dye (based on Martin’s “recipe”)

3.  Dye Pot

4.  Rags and cleaning supplies

Step 1: 

Bring a pot to boil and reduce heat to a simmer.  

Step 2: 

Add one full bottle of liquid Rit Kelly Green (or 2 powder packets) and stir to completely incorporate.

Step 3: 

Add ¾ a bottle of Dark Green Rit dye.  Easiest way to measure is dump half the bottle and stir, then pour half the remaining bottle.

Step 4: 

Drop the head in.  As usual, I treat this as a dual fade.  That way I can see how the color is taking and if anything needs to be added.  If the color as is desired, keep going.  

Tip: If the color isn’t as dark as you’d like add a pinch of laxdip black and test.  If you add too much to this mix, you’ll get an Olive Green. Less is more.

Step 5: 

Clean off head, place in freezer, and clean up.

Martin’s Final Thoughts!

“I get asked all the time for advice, my biggest piece of advice is to have patience and to practice. Use old head that are non- playable, or even broken heads, to test color and design.  Most importantly, watch YouTube videos. There are dozens of great videos from the best in the business. These are what I started with, and are the foundation of my business.”

Thank you for reading.  Remember to tag all string ups with #thegopherproject to earn string up of the week honors, and to give Dandy Dyes a follow!

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This week on #TheGopherProject, Kevin Henry revisits the box pinch. This time, he is showing how different styles of stringing can affect the performance of a head.

Box Pinch Revisited: #TheGopherProject

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Watch this week’s edition of #TheGopherProject, as Kevin Henry shows us how to properly execute the Bone Laxdip Dye.

Bone Laxdip Dye: #The GopherProject

Check out last week’s edition of #TheGopherProject where Kevin shows us how to string the Corner Pocket here on Lacrosse All Stars.

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How do I follow up on last week’s edition of #TheGopherProject of the spotlight on Max McCool?  Easy! Here’s my take on the Corner Pocket. This has been a staple for men for decades and just recently introduced to the women’s game. 

When done properly, the corner pocket provides both hold and accuracy. Since a majority of the pocket is mesh, there is very little maintenance to this once you have it set to your style of play.  From 2000 to probably 2003 I used a variant of this pocket as one of my gamers. Now, I’m going to see how I can make some changes.  

#TheGopherProject Stringing Scale: I’ll rate the difficulty on stringing these pockets from 1 to 5.  1 being fairly easy and 5 being the most difficult. With my version and the twists I use, I’m giving this a 3.  

Here is what you are going to need for the Corner Pocket on #TheGopherProject:

1. A lacrosse head.  Purple Laxdip dyed Maverik Kinetik 
2. 2 Leathers.  Yellow and Purple faded Gopher Leathers.
3. A piece of mesh.  Purple Striker Hero 2.0 
4. Crosslace.  Two six-foot pieces (will leave plenty of extra)
5. Sidewall.  Three pieces. Normal top and sidewall length
6. Bottom string.  I used sidewall but choose your preferred bottom string.
7. Shooters.  One used three purple. 

Step 1:

Cut the mesh.  I selected Hero because of the striker pattern made it easy to cut.  Now, if you are cutting mesh, you need to take it slow and think every cut.  One wrong cut and you’ve wasted the mesh. I left the little white nubs on the mesh to give the crosslace an area to bite into.  Make sure you singe the mesh after cutting to keep from fraying. If you have a rope cutter, this process will go quicker. 

Step 2:  

Attach the mesh to the scoop.  Start with a tie off on the first scoop hole.  With this five-diamond piece of mesh, I attached the second and fourth diamond to the two middle scoop holes.  Tie off on the other side.  

Step 3:

Start on the second hole and skip every other hole.  Here I used a double interlock knot on each sidewall hole.  I feel this keeps the sidewall from shifting. I use this in every traditional pocket I can…

Step 4: 

Bottom String time!  Tie off on the same diamond row you normally would (if this was just mesh).  Make sure you pull it tighter than you normally would for a tie off.  

Step 5: 

Here’s where I use a pocket stretcher (a Traditree would also work here) to make sure the mesh is pulled tight at the bottom and insert the leathers on each side.  I want the top of the leather to come up to the bottom of the stretcher

Step 6:

Here we are going to use Rockit Pocket inspired sidewall twist.  This will be the only tricky part if you’ve never done these before.  You need to take your time; you don’t want these coiling or wrapping around each other.  It’s a twist. Now how do you do this? Simple, give the line a little bit of slack. It’s not like crosslace where you want the line super tight each pass.  You need some slack for the twist to lay flat. Practice a few times and you’ll get the hang.  

Start from the first white nub diamond and double interlock the knot.  Run the crosslace under the leather and around the sidewall (leaving slack).  Then twist the crosslace and work the back of the leather. Bring it down to the diamond below and double interlock.   originally started from the sidewall and worked to the mesh but the sage advice from Phil (Spawn of Pipo) suggested the pocket would perform better the other way (it did).  

Step 7: 

Ideally you want to do one knot on the left and go and do the other knot on the right side of the mesh.  This will allow you do get perfect symmetry on the pocket. If you don’t, you’ll need to go back and adjust when you finish.  Make sure the area around where you build your pocket is not pulled to tight. If you do the twist too tight here, your pocket will not break in properly.  It’ll be shallow, treat this how you would mesh for pocket placement.  

Step 8:

Shooters….place per your preference (weaved or rolled)

Thanks for reading!  Use #TheGopherProject on your string ups to earn a future spotlight or string up of the week!

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For this week’s edition of #TheGopherProject, we are about to tackle one of the trickier dyes out there.  That’s right, it’s the Inside-Out Dye. These dyes are challenging in that you don’t see how well it turned out until you peel off all the vinyl and glue.  One tiny seam can ruin the entire dye, so patience and attention to detail are critical. I’d say my success rate is around 75% on these….let’s see how this one turns out.  Now this method is an overkill way of doing an inside out dye but it’ll typically turn out better.

Here is what you are going to need for the inside out dye job:

1. 1. Parents’ permission….
   2. A large pot and lid that you can fully submerge a head in. Note, this needs to be dedicated to dyes moving forward, you don’t want to cook in this after.
   3. A white lacrosse head.  This week I’m using the Warrior Burn FO
   4. Dye. This week I’m using turquoise Laxdip  
   5. Citric Acid (needed for Laxdip)
   6. Vinyl (I use Oracle 651)
   7. Glue gun.  
   8. A heat gun (or hair dryer will work)
   9. An x-acto knife (and extra blades)
   10. Stainless steel sink (to pour out the dye).  
   11. Proper ventilation (either an exhaust hood fan or do it outside)
   12. An old sponge or one you will only use for dyeing moving forward
   13. Cleaning supplies  
   14. Rubbing alcohol

Step 1:

Clean the head…..Just like last time…. You don’t want a stupid price tag sticker ruining your dye.  

Step 2:  

Lay the vinyl. For this tutorial, you’ll see I’ve got several colors of vinyl. This will hopefully demonstrate. For this head, we are going to use four sections of vinyl. We will start with the first section (the lower-third of the head) and use the red vinyl.

It’s important to make sure you lay this vinyl flat without any seems or bubbles.  If you see these, slowly lift the vinyl back up and reapply. After you have the section applied, blast it with the heat gun (or hairdryer) to adhere.  Next take an x-acto knife (new blade) and trim the excess off.

Step 3: Now we’ll do the top left section (this time with blue vinyl).  Same process as before, just make sure you evenly apply the vinyl from sidewall to scoop.  

Step 4:

Same as Step 3 but to the right side.

Step 5:

Carefully trim the final piece to fit the open section (leaving a slight seam so there is no overlap).  For this section, I left the seam larger than normal to demonstrate. Ideally, you want a small seam that will easily be covered by a glue line.  In this final section, I used green vinyl.

Step 6:

Go back through the entire head and heat and press all vinyl.  Trim any excess. Once you are comfortable with how everything is, it’s glue time.  

Note: Normally, I’d simply glue the seams and anywhere I do not think the vinyl needs to be supported.  Here, we’re going to glue everything! Run the glue evenly along all sections of the vinyl. Once it’s done, gently heat the glue with the heat gun.  It’ll go from glue lines to one big section of glue.

Here I brought in Dan Tisinger aka @Darkstarlax to give some pointers.  

Step 7:

Trim the glue lines and clean up all excess.  Dan’s great at this, taking another clean x-acto blade, trim all the excess. You can use the angles of the sidewall and top of the head as guidelines to run the blade across. Next, fire up the glue gun (without any glue) and use the nozzle to melt the excess glue from the edges. After a couple of passes, you can rub the excess glue off the lines. The glue gun doesn’t get hot enough for you to have to worry about burning/melting the head.  

Step 8:

Start water and turn exhaust fan on.  As the water is boiling take time to set up the rags.  Keep a couple handy to hold the head and cover it as you remove it from the dye.  Lay the rest on the counter to avoid splashes.

Step 9:  

Bring the water to the right temperature as listed on the dye’s instructions.   There are only really three companies (LaxDip, RIT, and Throne) and all have different instructions.  Use the directions as instructed….

Step 10:

Water is ready! Add the dye and stir in order to make sure there are no clumps. Turn down the water to a light simmer so it won’t spit dye up the head where you don’t want it. If you notice this, quickly remove head and run water on it.

Step 11:

Put the gloves on and place the head in the pot.

Tip- Remember that the head will darken after it’s dyed.  If you cool the head down and still want it darker, you can always re-dip.   Since this is a faceoff head, I want to get the color I want and out of the pot.  I tried to get the Atlas LC blue on this.

Step 12: Remove head from the dye gently rinse.  Place in freezer for five minutes.

Step 13: Remove head from freezer and allow to get back to room temperature and remove the vinyl.  The sections should peel up pretty easy once you get a lift on them. There will be stubborn section of cold dry glue….how do you remove those?  Rubbing Alcohol. A little bit on a rag will quickly separate the glue from the head.

Step 14:  

Clean up. This is the most important part, get your parents help if needed.  Carefully and slowly pour the dye down the drain. Rinse the pot and place aside (on a rag).  Then, clean any area that was near the dye process.

Step 15:  

Allow for the head to completely dry, string, and go hit the wall.

As you can see in the video, I had a slight bleed in the top scoop hole and a few spots I had a glue overrun but I’ll take that any day over a massive bleed.  

And that’s the inside out dye! Thanks for reading!  Use #TheGopherProject on your string ups to earn a future spotlight or string up of the week!

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I’ve strung many floating sidewall pockets, but always in a traditional pocket.  Never have I tried one with mesh….until now on this week’s edition of #TheGopherProject. The challenge with mesh is that you need at least the top-third of the head anchored down tight to create the channel.  Floating sidewall pockets are more forgiving to the ball and allow the pocket to shift from low to high depending on your cradle. Can it be done with mesh? Let’s see….

Here is Connor’s original video that inspired me to start stringing these up.  I did quite a few faceoff heads with this method that were a hit.

Floating Sidewall Pocket Materials: #TheGopherProject

1. A lacrosse head.  For this, I am breaking out the ECD DNA.  
2. Mesh!  It’s just past Memorial Day (as you’re reading this) so ECD Hero 2.0 USA LE is required.
3. Sidewall (Gold of course)
4. Shooters

Top String: Used my normal top string pattern here.  Start on the second hold and double looped the start.  Why double loop? It’s simple with some heads having larger sidewall holes on the first 4-5 holes, it keeps the knot tighter in place and less chance to slip through.  I loop the diamond to the scoop and run the sidewall under the bridge to the next scoop hole. I feel this pulls the mesh closer to the scoop and keeps the sidewall from fraying as quickly.  

Sidewall: Alright, here’s where the fun starts.  My goal was to get the top-third section of the head pulled tightly to the sidewall.  I did not use SI’s (special interlocks) because I personally do not like what it does to the mesh there.  I think it pulls too tight and makes ground balls harder to pull into the head. Anchor knots are my knot of choice.  Starting at the third sidewall hole I did a loop start, skip, AK, skip, AK, skip, AK, 1, knot.  I then ran the sidewall through four diamonds of mesh and knotted it to the head.  One more skip and then an AK and double loop on the small final diamond. It could appear like overkill with the AK/double loop and knot ending but I wanted to make sure the last diamond was pulled as close to the head as possible so I had two anchor points on the head.  

Bottom String/Shooters: Used a standard bottom string tie off and one nylon and one shooter set up at the top (fourth and sixth sidewall holes).  

Versions: So, I strung this several ways before settling on this version.  This is the one that I found that had the best features. First, it passed and shot well.  Second, it received the ball well. Finally, it had the hold and pocket shift I was exactly looking for.  With two hands, the ball sits right under the shooters (which I prefer) and with one hand, it rests towards the bottom throat.  

When I looped five or more diamonds, the pocket shift was too severe and the release was funky.  

If you string this up, tag me and let me know what you think or what you change with the floating sidewall.  

Thanks for reading!  Next week we dip our toe back into the dye pool.  Remember to tag all string ups with the #TheGopherProject to be included in future articles.

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Let’s make this part clear.  Box pinching a head will void any warranty and is not legal in youth, HS, or college. So why do this? We’re answering that question on this week’s edition of #TheGopherProject.

One, box pinched heads are more accurate and have better hold. Two, I think it’s a great topic for an article. Now with the benefits being listed, there are some disadvantages. Box pinched heads are harder to catch with and require more attention on ground balls.  So, keep that in mind before you try. For this week, we’re actually going to do the box pinch two ways. Let’s see which one works best. How are we going to determine that?  Simple, I’ve got a factory box pinched OG Clutch. It’s got the best box pinch face shape I’ve seen.

Box Pinching Materials: #TheGopherProject

1. A lacrosse head.  For this we’re using the STX X10 (a great option).  I’d love to give a huge thank you to www.sportstop.com for not only still having these in stock but ultra-fast shipping.  
2. A www.laxroom.com box pinch jig.  This will be the controlled pinch process.
3. Paracord or top string (this works better than regular sidewall).
4. An oven….
5. A sheet tray and parchment paper (to get heads safely out of oven).
6. Oven mitts….unless you want to burn your hands (not recommended)
7. Mesh, sidewall, and shooters.  For these X10’s we are going old school with ECD (https://www.ecdlax.com/east-coast-mesh.html) fade and solid waxed mesh.

From here on, you need parental supervision and approval.  We’re working with a 350 degree oven and a vinyl head. If you do not pay attention, you can burn yourself, melt the head, start a fire.   

For both options, you’ll want to set the oven to 350 degrees.  Place both the head or jig on a piece of parchment paper and then onto the sheet tray.  That way it’s easy to remove and if you have a head melt, it’s contained to the sheet. Now, I’ve pinched many heads and never had one melt but better to be safe….

Box Pinch Option #1: The Laxroom Jig. Just as it sounds, it’s a metal jig that will create a constant pinch and is virtually fool proof.  Place the head throat first into the jig and slightly flex the top-third to fit into the top. Push down firmly to make sure it’s in and you’re set.  

Place in oven for three minutes and place in a spot to cool.  I’ve added a step here. I place on the garage floor and with the oven mitts still on, slightly push the scoop against the garage step.  It helps the scoop stay a little flatter than pointed, which I like for ground balls. I’ll leave this in the jig until it completely cools (let’s say 30 minutes).

Box Pinch Option #2: This is the manual box pinch.  It’s a process I learned from Joe at Throne.

I added a few variations of my own.  While I’m going to keep that high one-third pinch Joe talks about, I want a tighter pinch down on the throat as well. Tie a double over hand knot on your paracord/top string to start. I start on the third sidewall hole and run it across the head.  I then go five sidewall holes and run the string to the opposite side but one sidewall hole lower (six on the side).  I think this narrows the bottom two-thirds of the head more in lines with the Clutch.  

Verdict? I took all 3 heads (the OG clutch, and both X10’s) and traced out the original shape to do a little after pinch comparison.  Let’s take a look at the video:

Now let’s string these up.  I’m going to string one myself and give one to my good buddy Brian (@laz_88) to string.  We’ll each use and see which pinch and pocket is more optimal in a future article on #TheGopherProject…

Thanks for reading!  Remember to tag all string ups with the #TheGopherProject to be included in future articles.

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It’s May! Time for another mailbag on #TheGopherProject!  This time, we’ll break these questions into four sections (stringing, heads, dyes and summer!).

Stringing

Do you prefer SI (Special Interlock) or KSI (Knotted Special Interlock)?

I prefer the KSI since I like how it locks the mesh and knot in place. If done correctly, it won’t loosen over time.

How do you do the knots you used in the Goalie Traditional string up?

Those are double interlocked knots. As with any knot, you have to make sure they lay flat and the tension is correct.  Here are a few pics of how to string it (easier than video with these). If you’re looking down at the leather, you want the crosslace under the leather and over (first pic).  Then, you are bringing the crosslace under first loop and pulling through (second pic). Pull this firm but leave room to pull crosslace through the loop from the other side. When you work back to the other side, you’re putting the crosslace across the top of the leather (pic 3) and then the same way again to complete the interlock (pic 4).  Once the interlock is flat, tighten to secure in place.

Maybe I should do a “How-To Knot” video one week….

When stringing mesh, do you prefer SI’s or Anchor Knots to start the pocket?

It’s all preference but for me, I prefer anchor knots. I think sometimes SI’s at the top pull the top third too tight and makes GB’s more difficult

Low Pocket or Shifty Pocket?

Why not both? A well-strung traditional pocket will be a mid-pocket if you cradle with two hands and a low pocket if you cradle one-handed.  If I had to pick only one, I’d go shifty. I need more hold in my stick then you get in a lower pocket. Now, you can get that with mesh but it takes some practice.  I’ve found Force Mesh can do both.

Heads

If you can change one feature on a recently released head to improve it, what would it be?

Interesting! Now, I’m not going to do something radical and take a low pocket head and make it mid/high, that’s too easy.  I’ll take the Epoch Z One for this one. Even though I am not a low pocket fan, I really like the face shape and string-ability of this head.  I would change the scoop, though. I think it’s too pointed for my style. I’d round that and reinforce the plastic on the sides of the scoop.

What is a past head feature you’d wish a company would revisit?

I’d love to see a company redo a modern head without the offset.  Same face shape and sidewall but non offset sidewalls/cant. I’d love to see if it would catch on.

Dyes

I just got a vinyl cutter and want to begin cutting vinyl, what’s your best advice for first time decals?

Take it simple at first. Get used to sizing vinyl and working with the software. Stars, shamrocks and flowers are all good first time images.  First, you can easily find good vector or AI files on those. Second, there is not a lot of detail to them. When you start to get into more complex designs, you need to remember that sometimes less is more.  For example, pulling some detail out of an image will actually make it look better post-dye. Why? Simply put, you’re taking a detailed image and shrinking it down to an inch square. If you leave all that detail, it’ll look muddy.  Keep the key detail, remove things you don’t need. Experiment! It’ll take time to perfect.

I can’t get the entire decal to lift (using clear transfer tape), any ideas?

Make sure you’re using a new piece of transfer tape (I use the Cricket Clear Transfer tape).  Lay the vinyl and transfer tape on a flat service and use a ruler or firm piece of plastic and rub the tape over the vinyl and lift. This should adhere the decal to the tape.

Summer!

What’s your favorite league to play for the summer?  

Great question! You want your league brought up in next month’s mailbag?  Contact me. Here in Northern Virginia there’s a few.

• First and foremost, there’s the Shootout for Soldiers.  We’re lucky to have Baltimore and DC to play in here.  If you haven’t been part of the SFS, now is the perfect time.  Can’t play? You can donate or volunteer your time.
• For the Virginia guys, There’s Virginia Elite Lacrosse and Fierce Nation.
• For the MD guys, There’s the new Maryland Lacrosse League. You can read about it here on LaxAllStars.

Thanks for reading!  Next week, get your Hogwarts robes ready, we’ve got a wizardry Spotlight….

Remember to tag all string ups with the #thegopherproject to be included in future articles or earn Weekly String Up honors!

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This week, I lost my sanity stringing up my version of the Space Commander for today’s installment of #TheGopherProject.  While there are several challenging string-ups in the community, the Space Commander is at the top of the hill.  Not only is it a lot of time to string (you’ll see below), it’s a giant pain to keep the enormous amount of crosslace straight.  I truly blame Matt (955Matt) for all this. I haven’t strung one in about 3 years and was quite happy with leaving it that way. He challenged me at Laxcon and I fell for it…. Matt – 1 Kevin – 0.  

Luckily, I have several great resources to lean on for this. Spenny (Coach_laxrat), Travis (redbeard_lax), and Brody (brodyj21). From Spen, I borrowed his STX Guardian that Krytpic strung back in the day for a reference. Matt and Travis provided feedback as I changed the pocket. Brody had just strung one so he was a great sounding board as well.

I know what you’re thinking, “He changed the pocket???” you bet I did.  This is my third time stringing a Space Commander up, and I wanted to tweak a few things I thought would be an improvement.  

While I am not going to provide a tutorial on this, I’ll give out what I used.  I also timed each step so you could get an estimate of how long this took.

Space Commander: #TheGopherProject

Here is what you are going to need:

1. Insanity….really, you have to be a little insane
2. A Goalie Head.  I used the Warrior Nemisis 3
3. Leathers, now I do not have Gopher Goalie Leathers, however, my good buddies at Laxroom.com do.  If you don’t buy my leathers, these guys are excellent. I spent a good deal of time treating and stretching these leathers.  
4. Crosslace….a lot.  When you think you’ve rolled out enough, add a few feet.  
5. Sidewall, I used 4
6. Shooters, I used 3

Step 1- The Center Track – 55 minutes

Here is the first thing I changed. Originally, I was not going to do the middle coil, why?  I was trying to make the pocket lighter and it’s only for aesthetics.  However, since there is a center hole in the scoop, the coil allowed me to bring the center track closer together.  I estimate that I cut about 12-18 ft of crosslace for the middle and had some left over but it’s better than running 3 inches short.   Getting the tension on the top coil took a little bit longer than I planned but after that, this is the easiest part of the head. I used the same number of knots that Kryptic used in Spenny’s head but added one to each side to make the pocket deeper. This part I strung completely flat but once it was done, I used a coffee can like shape to set the pocket and tie off the leathers.

Current Mood:

Step 2- Mid Outer Left and Right – 53 minutes

Now that I have the middle depth set, the next two leathers were adjusted to be lower and start to create the pocket. I got the shape I wanted and knotted them off at the bottom and strung this part up. I started on the left and finished the right a few minutes quicker.  Here’s where the double interlocks become easier since you’ve already strung 20+. The hard part is keeping the crosslace kink free and make sure you’ve got the tension correct.  You have to pay attention on this row because you don’t want the Space Commander pocket looking like a shark fin, it has to be a little wider.

Current Mood:

Step 3- Outer Left and Right – 40 minutes

First big change I made was here.  I ran another row of double interlocks here instead of starting the twist that run from here to the sidewall.  Why? Simple, I’ve never liked how much space that leaves on the original version. Plus, I thought it would shape the pocket better.  What’s a little more weight? Worst case is it’s so heavy that Scotty Rodgers uses it to curl with.

Current Mood:

Step 4- Final row… left and right – 32 minutes

Another few changes:  First, I used paracord for instead of leathers to reduce some weight. Second, in your typical Rock-it Pocket, the twists run from the leather to the sidewalls and back.  I started on the sidewalls. Why? I thought that by doing this I could tighten the tension and shape the pocket better.  For this, I used my softer crosslace (same as what RP does). I also did not use one string for both sides (never have liked that).  I tied each side off on the sidewall.

Current Mood (when I realized I still wasn’t finished):

Step 4- Shooters – 8 minutes

They’re shooters, what can I say?  I used a paracord for the first and normal shooters for the next two.  

Current Mood:

#TheGopherProject – Final Thoughts:

The major difference between my version of the Space Commander and the one Kryptic strung is depth. I wanted to have my deeper and I’ll need to adjust the pocket as it breaks in more.  Both heads throw extremely well right now but Krytpic’s pocket receives the ball better at this point in time. As the break in continues, the pocket will soften.

I know the major question now is “How heavy?” without a shaft, the head is almost 1lb.  Considering its 320 grams (.70 lbs) to begin with, you’re not talking about a massive weight increase.  

Editor’s Note: Check out last week’s edition of #TheGopherProject here, as Kevin Henry teaches us the Galaxy Dye.

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For this week’s edition of #TheGopherProject, we are going to build on the previous Fade Dye Tutorial with another no vinyl dye. These dyes are completely random which is part of the fun of doing these. You can dye two of the same heads at the same time and get completely different outcomes. This week we are doing the galaxy dye two ways. First is going to be a spray and drop method while the second will be building on what we did in the fade write up. Choose whichever one you feel comfortable with.   

Here is what you are going to need:

1. 1. Parents’ permission….
   2. A large pot and lid that you can fully submerge a head in.  Note, this needs to be dedicated to dyes moving forward, you don’t want to cook in this after.
   3. A white head.
   4. Dye.  This week I’m using ECRU and Black Laxdip  
   5. Citric Acid (needed for Laxdip)
   6. Webbing Spray (I am using black first then white to show the two steps)
   7. Vinyl or Rubber Gloves (you do not want stained hands)
   8. Rags…. cleanup is a must
   9. Stainless steel sink (to pour out the dye).  
   10. Proper ventilation (either an exhaust hood fan or do it outside)
   11. An old sponge or one you will only use for dyeing moving forward
   12. Cleaning supplies  

Galaxy Dye Tutorial

Step 1:

Galaxy dye are unique in that the colors the head takes depend on where, when, and how much webbing spray has been used.   For this week we’ll be using the True Prowess (Fade) and Nature Boy Kraken head (Spray and Drop).

Step 2:  

Clean the head…..Just like last time…. You don’t want a stupid price tag sticker ruining your dye.  

Step 3:  

Plan the color’s out.  For this tutorial, we’re going to ECRU (fancy way for saying tan….) and black. The plan is to have it look like a dark night lightening storm….that’s the plan anyway.  It may end up looking like a 1970’s couch….who knows?

Step 4:

Take the head and webbing spray outside (I used the black first).  If you don’t have an area of the grass to do this, simply use a cardboard box.  With the webbing spray, you do not want a control blast, use a sweeping motion and spray a decent amount on the head.

For the Kraken, spray and make sure you get the back of the head as well.

For the Prowess, we are going to use the same technique as the fade but at a slant.  First thing we are going to do map out where we are going to leave white and make pencil lines as a guide.  For this I ran a random shooter across the head to give me an idea.

Then I marked equal lines on the top and bottom.  I then ran a thick spray over the pencil lines to make sure I didn’t dip that area too far into the dye.  You going to use the same dipping method as the fade to these lines.

Step 5:

Start water and turn exhaust fan on.  As the water is boiling take time to set up the rags.  Keep a couple hand to hold the head and cover it as you remove it from the dye.  Lay the rest on the counter to avoid splashes.

Step 6:

Bring the water to the right temperature as listed on the dye’s instructions.   There are only really three companies (LaxDip, RIT, and Throne) and all have different instructions.  Follow them….

Step 7:

Water is ready!  Add the dye and stir in order to make sure there are no clumps.  Turn down the water so it won’t spit dye up the head where you don’t want it.  If you notice this, quickly remove head and run water on it.

Step 8:

Put the gloves on and gently place the head in the pot.  

Tip– Remember that the head will darken after it’s dyed.  If you cool the head down and still want it darker, you can always redip.   With galaxy dyes, the less time it’s in the water, the more the webbing spray will remain on the head.  Get the color and get out of the pot.

Step 9:  

Remove head from the dye gently rinse.  Place in freezer for 5 minutes.

Step 10:  

Remove head from freezer and allow to get back to remove temperature.  Once it is, take back outside and apply another coat of webbing spray. You’ll notice in this picture that I used white for the second coat.  

Tip– If you’re dyeing the next step black, add black to the current dye and stir.  Place head in and wait until you get to the desired darkness.

Step 12:

Webbing clean up.  No joking aside, this is the worst part by far of this dye.  You do not want the webbing spray to dye or get cold. Once you’ve done the final color, take the sponge and run the head under hot water (keep those gloves on) and scrub the webbing spray off with a sponge.  Once done, drop in the freezer for the cooldown period. If you wait until the head cools, it’s like chipping concrete….

Step 11:

Clean up. This is the most important part, get your parents help if needed.  Carefully and slowly pour the dye down the drain. Rinse the pot and place aside (on a rag). Then clean any area that was near the dye process.

Step 12:  

Allow for the head to completely dry, string, and go hit the wall.

Thanks for reading!  Use #TheGopherProject on your string ups to earn a future spotlight or string up of the week!

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Every so often something new comes along in the world of stringing. Someone has a new top string set up or something unique with how they string up a head.  Truth be told most of these hit a fad phase and then slowly fade away. For example, the Chenango top string anyone?  It was all the rage when it first was strung up and is a functional good pocket but is relatively scarce these days. So, when someone creates a style that not only takes a hold of the men’s game but also the women’s?  Then they deserve a spotlight on #TheGopherProject. Lars Keil is the Godfather (wait, that doesn’t fit…more like Jedi Master) of stringing to the inside sidewall. Let’s go to Lars himself get some background on this.

Kevin Henry: How did you come up with this idea?

Lars Keil: Honestly, the first few times I did the stringing to the inside sidewall, it was because I had either pulled through the sidewall or someone else had and I had to find an alternative where I used the positioning of that specific hole, but was still have to lock the string into that position.

KH: What is the benefit of stringing to the inside sidewall?

LK: It opens up a whole new world of possibilities for pocket shapes. Stringing to the inside allows for an innumerable number of new pocket shapes that were previously a fantasy. It all comes down to where and how the mesh is pulled to and from. Something that I have said for years when it comes to stringing is that millimeters are miles. And when it comes to stringing some of the wider defensive heads, all of a sudden you can have a high bag with a tight channel that you could never have before with stringing to the outside.

KH: What’s the toughest part of learning this style?

LK: You don’t exactly have to start from scratch, but all those old tried-and-true patters you know have to be thrown out the window and you have to learn an all new set of patterns. It is very exciting!

To be completely honest, I have never strung one of these in my life.  Once I started framing out this week’s edition of #TheGopherProject here, I knew Lars would be one of the first spotlights so I figured we’d try this together here.  So here we go.

Materials for Our Stringing To The Inside Sidewall Project (What You’ll Need):

• 1 Lacrosse Head (men’s or women’s). For this, I’m using a True Key (same one I used in the fade tutorial in our previous #TheGopherProject edition)
• 1 top string (Normal Length)
• 2 sidewalls (for this I used 36 inches but I suggest adding a few more your first attempt)
• 1 bottom string
• 2/3 shooters (your preference)
• 1 True Mesh (kind of hard to do without a piece)

Lars Tips:

• While possible, it is much easier to set up mid to high pockets stringing to the inside than it is to do low pockets
• Keep everything as tight as possible  
• Whatever you think is the appropriate length of string, always cut yourself a few more inches, string is cheap, there are few things more infuriating that having to completely redo a sidewall because you didn’t cut enough string to begin with

Step 1:  Lars has been incorporating a floating top string lately so I’m using that.  A floating top string is not very different from a normal topstring. The major difference is that the interlocks will not pull the diamond to the plastic.    

Gopher Tip: Pull the sidewall as tight as you can and make sure there is no slack in your knots and transitions.

Step 2: Sidewall.  Here is where we are the magic happens.  Note, for the True Key, there are multiple sidewall holes so if you’re using another head (say the STX Stallion or ECD Rebel) you’ll need to bring the sidewall over the top of the sidewall.

We begin with your basic loop on the 9^th sidewall hole.  Skip four holes and then begin your SI but bring the sidewall to the outer side of the head and back through the open sidewall above and complete the SI.

You’ll notice the mesh is now hugging the inside of the sidewall and not the bridge.

Now that we got that set, the pattern for the rest of the head is skip, SI, SI, SI, SI, SI, skip, SI, SI, Tie off.

Since this spotlight is for Jedi, it wouldn’t be complete without a pre/post pounding….

Step 3: Bottom String.  You can use whatever one you prefer, for this one, I’ve used one of Lars patterns.  Start at the first 10-diamond row after the sidewall tie off. Make a double overhand knot and run it from the bottom of the head on the outer throat hole.  Loop it around the hole again and weave the bottom string through 5 diamonds down into the 3^rd throat hole.  Take the bottom string back and up through the second hole and weave through the other 5 diamonds and tie off like the other side.

Step 4: Shooters.  Rolled or weaved, your call.  Just remember if you roll, make sure they are tight and to the proper tension.  

Step 5: Now I am going to hit the wall and give some feedback on the pocket.  

Thanks for reading!  Use #TheGopherProject on your string ups to earn a future spotlight or string up of the week!

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This week we’re going old — I’m stringing up a vintage lacrosse head. That’s right, the STX Barney.  Let’s take a quick recap of the Barney. This head was released in the late 1970s and was off the market by 1983 (or around that time).  This was primarily a defensive head where the SAM was geared towards the offensive player. Even by today’s ‘D’ head standards, this sucker if beefy.  As with all vintage heads, they are a challenge to string. These heads have tiny leather holes, very little sidewall holes, and are now brittle.  You need to treat any stringing of these vintage heads like you would stringing a vintage wooden stick.

This vintage lacrosse head was a unique find by Ryan aka @vintagelaxbrand for several reasons.  One, it’s white, I cannot recall ever seeing ones of these. Red and blue were the only colors I’ve seen in the past.  Two, it’s still has most of the original ball stop intact. Three, other than a few stress cracks (slight discoloration of the head but no true crack) this head is in phenomenal shape.  I think Ryan heard the scream of “dibs” in New York when I first saw this.

Now, here comes the challenge of stringing this vintage lacrosse head up.  I am going to keep as close to the original style as possible.  Luckily I’ve got a good buddy in Spencer (@coach_laxrat) that has two strung and the he played with back in the day.  I’m planning on using those and my own SAM as the template.

I am stringing this for display only.  What does that mean? Good question, I am stringing this flat and not building out a pocket in it.  A vintage lacrosse head this unique should never be used. Stringing for display means it can be hung on a wall or even on a mount.  You want these to lay flat.

Stringing The Barney: A Vintage Lacrosse Head On #TheGopherProject

Here’s what I am using to keep this as close to the original:

1.  Old School Gopher Leathers (close to what you’d get in a vintage traditional kit)

2.  Gold Sidewall (this was a staple back then)

3.  White crosslace

4.  Black Top Cord Shooters (no way you can find those original ones, this is close)

Let’s begin!

Sidewall – This is truly the vintage way to do it.  With so few sidewall holes, you had a floating sidewall section and the rest of the sidewall connects it to the holes.  Make sure to leave the top sidewall hole open. 

Gopher Tip– If you ever string one of these (or the SAM, 73, 74, etc.) start from the bottom of the head and run the sidewall up.  It’s easier than trying to tie off at the bottom.

Leathers – You’ll need to stretch and thing these out a bit.  Like I wrote above, the holes are smaller and I’ve cracked heads trying to force the leather through.  With only two throat slots for the leathers, I am running the middle two there and tie off around the throat.  The outer two leathers will run to the bottom sidewall holes.

Gopher Tip– Easiest way to thin out a leather is to take a cracked head (or one you don’t mind cracking) and run the leathers through one of the larger sidewall holes, do this until it’s the correct width to easily use in the vintage head.  Plus, this will slightly age the leathers making it look closer to the age of the head.

Crosslace – I’m doing a six-diamond single string on this one.  Pretty straight forward except the starting point. Since I cannot run the crosslace from the sidewall, I am going to leave 3-to-4 inches of excess tie off to the outside of that leather.  The excess is if you need to make a later correction. Otherwise trim and burn at the end.

String down until you get to the bottom of the head (the 6^th diamond) and do a Pipo knot.  I know that’s not proper name but Phil uses this tie off and I’m coining it “Pipo Knot.”  If you’ve never tried one, here is the link.

Work your way up and down the pocket just like we did in the six-diamond tutorial.  Instead of running the last piece of crosslace through the sidewall of the Barney, just tie off to the last leather.

Shooters – There is only one way to do these shooters.  One string and rolled. There are no other options, we’re going vintage today… embrace it.

Here’s how I do it:  First, find the midpoint of your shooter and tie a knot. Feed the sidewall through the top sidewall hole (which is why we left it open) and run to the other sidewall and start rolling.  Hopefully this section of videos will make that clear.

Untie the knot run it through the top sidewall knot and across.  From here, we are going to do the same process making sure to connect the shooter to the sidewall and not through the sidewall hole (since there is not enough space).  Bring it back and loop around sidewall and tie off.

From here, fix all tension issues and clean up any excess sidewall, crosslace, and shooters.  Now display the Barney proudly!

Next week, we will be spotlighting someone strong with the Force…

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For this week’s edition of #TheGopherProject, we are going to visit how to do some dyes with nothing but things you may have around the house (or can easily purchase). While elaborate dye jobs can be great, there is also something that is pretty rad about a simple fade. Back in the day before vinyl cutters, you had either vinyl numbers and letters you had to buy from the hardware store or hand cut them out of electrical tap. E-Lacrosse was the hotbed of how tutorials on this before TLF. Max McCool was THE early pioneer of these dyes and still someone to go to for advice. Of course, a new generation of phenomenal dyers is out there but here, we are going to start with an instant classic dye… ‘The Fade’. And, it’s one of those completely vinyl free dyes!

Last week, #TheGopherProject featured Robin Brown (@laxtractive) who showed us her single twist pita pocket. Learn how to string that masterpiece here.

So, let’s start, here is what you are going to need:

1. Parents’ permission….
2. A large pot and lid that you can fully submerge a head in.  Note, this needs to be dedicated to dyes moving forward, you don’t want to cook in this after.
3. A white head.  As I mentioned in the mailbag, if you use a colored head, you can only dye darker than the current color of the head.  
4. Dye.  I will be using Laxdip but use any dye you prefer.  
5. Citric Acid (needed for Laxdip)
6. Vinyl or Rubber Gloves (you do not want stained hands)
7. Rags….clean-up is a must
8. Stainless steel sink (to pour out the dye).  
9. Proper ventilation (either an exhaust hood fan or do it outside)
10. Cleaning supplies  

Before we begin, just a quick reminder.  Not all heads will take dye the same way.  Some may take longer to get the color you prefer and there may be areas of discoloration do to injection molding sites.  

This Week’s Vinyl Free Dye

The Fade  

Just as it sounds, the fade is a gradual transition from one color to the next.  

Step 1:

Let’s decide if you are going to do a throat up fade or scoop down (even both where the mid one-third of the head is white.   For this example, we are going to do a throat up fade. For this week we’ll be using the True Key.

Step 2:  

Clean the head… ‘Why?’ you may ask. ‘I just bought it and it’s brand new?!’ Simple, even new heads need to be cleaned.  Sticker residue, grease, someone trying to claim dibs by licking the head, can all leave deposits that will impact the dye area.  You can remove the ballstop (it’s really just for aesthetics these days anyway) if you want the entire area dyed and cleaner. After everything is removed, I like to use goof off and a rag to wipe down the entire head (even the part I am not dyeing).   I then rinse with soap and warm water and dry.

Step 3:  

Plan out the fade.  Doing this will allow for you to get a clean zone across the head and not a lopsided dye.  Take a ruler or straight edge and with a pencil, make a line of where you want the fade to begin.   Now, this is the line we will do the initial dip in the dye.

Note from Future Self: Make sure to measure that the water line in the pot is at or higher pencil level before bringing to a boil.

Step 4:

Start water and turn exhaust fan on.  As the water is boiling take time to set up the rags.  Keep a couple on hand to hold the head and cover it as you remove it from the dye.  Lay the rest on the counter to avoid splashes.

Step 5:  

Bring the water to the right temperature as listed on the dye’s instructions. There are only really three companies (LaxDip, RIT, and Throne) and all have different instructions.  Follow them….

Step 6:

Water is ready!  Add the dye and stir in order to make sure there are no clumps.  Turn down the water so it won’t spit dye up the head where you don’t want it.  If you notice this, quickly remove head and run water on it.

Tip– Remember that the head will darken after it’s dyed.  If you cool the head down and still want it darker, you can always re-dip.  The dye will remain “active” until it has cooled. If it does cool, simply turn the heat back up and wait until the water is the proper temperature.

Step 7:

Put the gloves on and dip the head in the water until you hit the pencil lines on both sides and then raise a few inches.  From here on out, slowly dip the head in the dye while holding the head out of the water higher in higher. You want the pencil line to be only dipped once or twice while the areas lower to be to be in the dye longer.  This will allow the gradient to be darker down to the throat. When you have the desired effect on the sidewalls, dip the ball-stop to throat area for another minute. This will leave this area the darkest and showcase the fade.

Note Not Followed by Future Self: You’ll see the pencil line sat above the water line of the pot.  You can either add more water and bring to temp or gently rock the head from side to side at the beginning to get to that line.

Step 8:  

Remove head from the dye, rinse, and place in freezer for five minutes.

Step 9:

Is the head the desired color?  Great, wipe down with goo gone and rewash, you are done.

Step 10:  

Clean up. This is the most important part, get your parents help if needed. Carefully and slowly pour the dye down the drain. Rinse the pot and place aside (on a rag).  Then clean any area that was near the dye process.

Step 11:  

Allow for the head to completely dry, string, and go hit the wall.

There you have it! In our next vinyl free dyes article, we’ll tackle a slightly more challenging dye — the Galaxy Dye!

Have any questions about our vinyl free dyes? Want to suggest a topic for us to cover? Use the hashtag #TheGopherProject on social media and tag @LaxAllStars and @GopherLax5 in the post for your questions to be answered! Share your creations with us!

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