Recently we received an email from a reader asking us if we’d be willing to put together a tutorial for a Kobra pocket. After scanning the interwebs for a few hours I decided to dive into a twist (pun intended) on a Kobra. Below is my take on what it seems like people are calling a Kobra Lite pocket. The Kobra is essentially just three saddles put together. To me that is a waste of cross lace and it creates a wide pocket without much of a channel. SO, I went with something that I could use to explain how to string a Kobra, while stringing a head that I’d actually play with. The results are promising and so far I am actually really digging the way the pocket turned out. Read on to find out more.

As with any traditional… you need leathers and sidewall. Once you have everything setup you are ready to dive in.

I like to add a barrel to many of my traditional pockets. I think that given the saddle feature in the center of the pocket, keeping the top wide is important and the barrel will help with that.

The top of the Kobra pocket starts with three twists. These three twists allow for space to add shooting strings AND they help reduce some weight. I used doubles for my knots to help keep my twists tight and in place.

As I mentioned, for most Kobra pockets you will need 3 sets of twists. I twisted the crosslace three times for each twist before I knotted the crosslace to the leathers. On the last of my three twists I only used a single knot (see my finger) so that I could start the giant saddle.

And then the saddle begins… A saddle is often used at the bottom of a variety of traditional pockets to give the ball a place to sit when you cradle one handed. The saddle is simply just a repetition of crossing one piece of cross lace over the other and knotting it off on the opposite side. It’s really important to remember to always keep the direction that you cross consistent.  What I mean is that if your left piece of cross lace crosses over your right piece of cross lace (like I did) you should do that throughout the pocket.

Continue with the saddle until you get close to the end of your leathers when they are pulled tight to the bottom of the head.

I like to use a pocket stretcher to adjust my leathers to the depth that I want my pocket. I like to string my pockets tight, so the stretcher keeps it from shrinking too much when I really tighten the crosslace.

For style points I added a little red to the bottom of my middle saddle and then I used black for my middle crosslace sections.

Add one piece of middle crosslace through both leathers on either side of the center saddle.

Twist the crosslace once and knot it off on either side.

Everyone does their knots differently, and I actually use two styles of knots on this pocket. I wanted the knots on the center of the stick to look the same, so I adjusted how I strung them. The outer two sections are strung with knots that I typically use in my pockets.

Twist the crosslace three times and knot again.

When you get to your third set of knots, you will begin interlocking the knots into the saddle. IF you wanted to string a standard Kobra pocket you would simply start your second and third saddle sections here making sure to interlock the center saddle to the outer two saddles as I have done with the knots in the image above.

Continue this process through the end of the head. Now you are ready to add your final cross lace section.  This section is consistent with a standard Kobra, so if you strung up a standard Kobra you will still follow these steps.

Insert the crosslace through the top hole on the sidewall and then interlock it with your top knot from your middle crosslace section.

Interlock the crosslace back to the sidewall string.

Add one twist to the crosslace before interlocking it to the next knot on your middle crosslace section.

Repeat this process through the end of the head and…

BRAP!

For more awesome traditional stringing knowledge, check out the Traditional Archives for more original pockets, tutorials, and more!

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We’ve got something special for today’s revival of Topstring Tuesday.

A few days ago, I was reading through the Lacrosse Community Forum and stumbled upon an older post about dropped top strings.

I started looking at old dropped top strings that I had strung up and then dove into the depths of the interwebs to see what other people had done up. I think that one issue I have had with stringing a dropped top string like an Iroquois Top String is getting the tension right.

With that in mind, I wanted to try something that kept the top of the pocket tight without having to add a rail like piece of crosslace that you would use in a Huron Top String.

I came across a Vertical Twist Dropped Top String and decided I would do a tutorial on how I strung mine up.

Start by stringing your mesh to the sidewall. I chose to skip 4 sidewall holes on this Easton Stealth as the head is wide and has a lot of sidewall holes.

I used a 9 diamond row of mesh as my head has 6 holes up top for stringing.

It helps if you string a few diamonds to the sidewall to keep the mesh in place and give the pocket it’s initial shape.

String the top string through the bottom of the second diamond on the nine diamond row and back up to the top of the head.

Knot the top string to the first top string hole. I used a double top string knot to help with tension.

Here is where you add the twists. I used two twists based off of the depth of my pocket.

After your twists, run the top string back under the next diamond on your nine diamond row.

Repeat this process across the top of the head.

String your sidewalls, add your shooters, and ball so hard.

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Last week a reader asked about pointers for spacing out the middle leathers on a Pita Pocket. I am sure there is a long list of strategies for adding space to the middle leathers, and with a little creativity, I tried to test out a few.

Below are a few pictures of my process with a few comments about my strategy. I’m not quite sure if this is as much space as our reader was hoping for, but it’s further spread out than I normally aim for. Typically I like to keep my middle leathers tight together and then use my outer two leathers to create the channel that I like in my stick.

That said, I am liking how this pocket feels in the wider, college legal CEO head.

The first strategy that I tried out was a barrel at the top. The barrel will keep the leathers spread out as it creates a desired width at the top of the middle leathers.

The barrel in a Pita sparked my creativity a bit so keep your eyes peeled for a future Traditional Thursday post.

After adding the barrel at the top I really concentrated on leaving enough slack in my knots to keep the space that was created by the barrel.

I used 3 twists between each set of knots as I like more diamonds in my pocket.

When my middle leathers were all laced up I strung my middle cross section.  I like to string both sections at the same time to make sure my knots and diamonds are even and equally tight.

I tried to pull this section fairly tight so that the middle leathers pulled outward toward the outside leathers.

After the mid cross sections were complete, I added my outer sections, again pulling them tight to the sidewall to really stretch out my middle leathers.

I tend to string my Pita pockets fairly flat and then use a ball to shape the pocket and adjust my knots as needed.

Here’s what I came up with:

Mid pocket, mid whip. Two straight shooters and a nylon.

Pretty clean and I love the way it throws.

How would you add width to your middle leathers?

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A few weeks back, Connor dropped a Metrik ton of traditional on us. His use of box knots and his variations on some pretty traditional… well traditional pockets, got me thinking about stringing up a new pocket for myself. I just so happened to have a Proton Power laying around so I went about twisting something up.

The Proton Power doesn’t have room for 4 leathers, so like Connor, I got a little creative. I love coils as I feel like they really keep my pocket throwing consistently. A while back I tried an Eagle’s nest pocket and liked the use of crosslace to form diamonds. I put it all together and this is what I ended up with:

I have seen similar pockets in Google image searches (in fact I added the top string simply because I liked how it looked on another pocket), but everyone adds their own twist (pun intended) so this is my take on a two leather trad.

So far I am loving the way it throws and the lack of two leathers makes the weight of the pocket comparable to the mesh I had in it before. What would you do with 2 leathers? Anyone do a pocket with 3? Would there be reason to? Let us know!

Also check out this two leather pocket tutorial from Connor. He didn’t make this one up, Brendan Shook did, but CW’s tutorial shows you how it’s done!

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This week I’m sticking to the blue and orange theme that I went with in last week’s Braided Top Shooter.  I love the triangle top string.  I love the way it looks.  I love the way it keeps the ball from hitting plastic and I love the fact that you get to use two different colored top strings to customize your pocket a bit.  This week I decided to get a little tricky with what I am calling the Two Triangle Top String.  The Two Triangle Top String is essentially the same thing as a triangle top string.  The difference being that the Two Triangle Top String requires you two cross your two top strings over to give the top string a multicolored look.  Typically, the triangle top string runs one color for the standard 9 diamond top string and one for the triangles.  The Two Triangle Top String switches between the two colors.  This is simply just a unique spin on a classic top string but I thought it looked pretty good with my braided top shooter.  Check out the photos below to string your own.

Step 1: SO Important to use a 9 diamond row.  This top string won’t work with a 10 diamond row in the mesh.

Step 2: Cinch your color 1 top string to the sidewall and first piece of mesh.

Step 3: Send color 1 through the back of the head and out the front.  Bring color one back to the back of the head through the loop that you just created.

Step 4: Unlike a traditional triangle top string, you need to string the Two Triangle Top String with both pieces of top string at the same time.  Insert your top string color 2 into the same sidewall hole as color 1.  Keep the string on the front of the stick as it is the start of triangle 1.  Send color 2 through the front of the head and out the back.

Step 5: Loop color 2 through the back to the front and then around color 1, bringing color 2 back to the back of the head.

Step 6: Send color 2 back through the back of the head and out the front.

Step 7: Insert color 2 underneath the fold in the 3rd diamond.  You will skip this diamond and string diamond 4 to the second top string hole just like you would with a traditional triangle top string.

Step 8: This is where the Two Triangle Top String differs from a traditional triangle top string.  Color 2 becomes the inner color and color 1 becomes the triangle. Send color 2 through the back of the head, bringing it back to the back through the loop you just created just like in step 3.

Step 9: Color 1 becomes triangle 2. String color 1 up underneath the second half of the fold in diamond 3 to the front of the head.  String color one through the front and out the back of the head.

Step 10: Loop color 1 from the back to the front, around color 2 and then back to the back of the head.  The string will be pulled from the back to the front through top string hole 2.  This step completes triangle 2.

Step 11: Repeat steps 3-10 two once more for triangles 3 and 4.

Step 12: Use color 2 to cinch your 9th diamond to the top sidewall hole on the side of your head opposite the side that you started stringing on.

Step 13: Send color 1 out the front of the head through the top sidewall hole, again, opposite the side that you started stringing.

Step 14: Knot that ish.

Step 15: Prepare yourself to have the coolest stick on the field.

Step 16: Keep your eyes peeled for the latest and greatest Top String Tuesday.

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This week I thought I would mix it up a bit and throw together a top shooter tutorial. I got a lot of positive feedback on last week’s photo tutorial so I’m sticking to it this week with a new one for a braided top shooting string.  This shooter was introduced to me by the one and only Jeff Brunelle, and what I love about it is that the braided top shooter plays a lot like a dropped top string.

The braided nylons are tighter than your average single nylon shooter.  The tightness of the nylons, if done right, can help cut the release point on your pocket.  Like this top shooter, I am going to keep this tutorial short and sweet, but I will say that the braided nylons generate quite a bit of nylony twang.  If you like the feeling of the ball hitting the nylon I suggest you give this a try.  If not, check in next week for another edition of Top String Tuesday.

Step 1: The braided top shooter requires two nylons.  I went with orange and blue to help make the stringing easier to see (and let’s be honest, they look good together).  The strings should each be about an arms length – I went end of my hand to the middle of my chest.

Step 2: Fold your first nylon in half and stick both ends of the nylon through a sidewall hole near the top of the head.  I went third from the top because I knew I wanted to string a lower pocket with a quick release.

Step 3: Weave the two ends of the nylon like you would a typical woven shooting string – over and under, over and under – across the stick.

Make sure that the loop, created by sticking the two ends of the folded nylon, does not get pulled through the head.  Also, be sure that your nylon does not get twisted.  The end that started on top needs to stay on top, the one on the bottom stays on the bottoms, just like mine in the picture above.

Step 4: Fold your second nylon in half and wrap it around the ends of the first.

Step 5: Weave your second nylon (my blue nylon), this time weaving around the outside of the first nylon (my orange nylon) and then through the inside of the first nylon, outside and then inside, across the stick.

Step 6: Continue weaving across the head.

Step 7: Stick the ends of both folded nylons through the loops that were created initially (this should already be done for the ends of your first nylon).

Step 8: Tie a looped knot on both sides using the two ends of each nylon.  It is important here that your nylons are pulled tight.  When the nylons are pulled tight the loop created by the fold in the nylon will be too small for the knot you are about to tie to pull through.

Step 9: Ball so hard.

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This week I wanted to bring you something special in honor of Veteran’s Day and the good ol’ US of A. Now, I can’t take credit for the creation of this top string.  Our very own Michael Allen sent me a photo and suggested it may make a great TST… He was right, obviously, so I wanted to break it down through an easy to follow photo tutorial.

I am a visual learner and felt that with the ins and outs of this top string it would be best to stay away from the video this week and just take you through step by step so that you can follow along at your own pace.

The LaxAllStars Top String is a spin off of the Chenango Top String I strung up in the first week of TST. The difference between the two is the LaxAllStars top features a little flair through the stringing of the second piece of top string. I’m not going to lie to you and say I didn’t do this just for looks, but I will say that I have found that the LaxAllStars top string rounds out the top of the pocket a bit more than the Chenango Top String through the tension that the bottom corner of the star adds to the mesh. I actually like the shape of this pocket a bit more as it eliminates the potential for a slower release that a Chenango runs the risk of creating if you string your channel too tight.

My suggestion: give them both a try and see which one you like best. Follow along with the steps below to string your own.

Step 1: Start by stringing up the first top string just like you would when stringing a Chenango. Don’t know how? Check out my tutorial.

I like to start my Chenango Top String in the third sidewall hole from the top.  The lower you go, the tighter the channel will be and you will start running into release issues.

Step 2: Add your second top string.

Step 3: The second top string goes through the first top string hole.  Make sure you string from the front of the head to the back.

Step 4: String the second top string through the back of the second diamond on your 9 diamond row of mesh.

Step 5: This is where the star takes shape.  Wrap the top string around the back of the sidewall, placing it through the outside of the second sidewall hole.  The string will continue up to the second top string hole where the first Chenango top string has secured the mesh to the head.

Step 6: String the top string through the back of the second top string hole and out the front.

Step 7:  String the top string underneath the fold of the middle diamond (the 5th diamond on the 9 diamond row) and then back through the front of the third top string hole.  This step is the same when stringing the middle two top string holes in a Chenango pocket.

Step 8:  Run the top string out through the inside of the first sidewall hole.

Step 9: String the top string through the front of the second diamond from the right side of the head (8th from where you started stringing).  The string will be brought from the front of the diamond to the back of the mesh and up to the remaining top string hole.

Step 10: String the top string through the back of the remaining top string hole and then down to the second sidewall hole – stringing through the inside of the sidewall hole to the outside of the head.

Step 11: String the top string around the outside of the head and up to the back of the second top string hole.  Pull the string through the back of the second top string hole and out the front.

Step 12: String the top string back through the front of the next top string hole and out to the back of the head.

Step 13:  String the sidewall out through the second sidewall and tie it off.

Step 14: Go out and show off your LaxAllStars Top String.

Be sure to check back next week for another edition of Top String Tuesday and, as always, stay laxy my friends.

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Over the past few weeks we have been digging into what I call the “dropped top string.”  Two weeks ago I strung up a Huron Top String and last week I showed you how to string a quick and easy Iroquois Top String.  This week I’m teaming up with the one and only, big Billy Nguyen to bring you a fresh take on the how and why one might string a pita or traditional pocket with a dropped top string.

If you haven’t seen it yet, Billy recently showed off his mean looking, Connor Wilson custom dyed, dropped trad pocket.  The second I saw his post, I couldn’t wait to sit down and hear all about it.  Billy explained, “I created the drop top strings after playing with one in a mesh stick over the summer. I’ve never seen it done before in a traditional.  Not only was it super functional, it was also still removable.”

After talking with Billy, I knew I had to try one for myself.  I decided to string up a Huron style Pita Pocket.  I love playing with a Pita Pocket and I love a stick that has a quick release, so I was pretty excited to test out this new approach.  What I found after playing with my own dropped Pita was that I was able to maintain the hold that you can only get with leathers while really reducing the time it took to get the ball out of my stick.  I think the pocket looks pretty unique, and I found that the depth of my dropped top allowed me to replicate the feel of playing with 4 shooters – my go to when playing with mesh – while only stringing up two.

One thing that I struggled with when stringing up my dropped Pita was figuring out a way to prevent the leathers from moving side to side without them being attached to either the top of the head or one of CW’s infamous tear drop top strings.  After messing around with a few options, I decided to use the two top strings, featured in the Huron Top String, to stabilize the leathers.  Once I had every thing in place it took me a few days to get the tension on the rail of the Huron pocket right.  At first, when I really ripped a shot, the ball would twang off the rail a bit too much for my liking.  It almost felt like hitting plastic.  I ended up having to adjust the tension of the two top strings to give the rail some slack, but once I figured the tension out I had a hard time putting this stick down.  I think next time I string something like this up I may test out Billy’s take on the Iroquois Top String Traditional.

If you think this may be a string job worth testing out, or you have your own unique spin on the dropped traditional, shoot us a line.  We love to hear from you and may even decide to show off your work.  Check back next week so a special spin on the Chenango Top String. Trust us… you won’t want to miss it.

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Last week I showed you how I string a Huron top string.  This week I will walk you through my approach to stringing an Iroquois top string.  Like the Huron top string, the Iroquois top string features what I call a “dropped top string”.

While I prefer the Huron top string due to it’s use of additional top strings for added tension, the Iroquois top string is quicker and easier to install.  The ease of installation and maintenance of the Iroquois top string make it a great dropped top string for any player interested in testing out this type of pocket.

As always, this is my approach to stringing an Iroquois top string.  Take what you will from it, test out new methods, and make your stick your own.  Check back next week for a look inside a dropped pita pocket.

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This week I’ll run through a how-to for stringing a Huron Top String.  The Huron features a “dropped top string” that uses three different pieces of top string.  This is nice if you are into custom pockets, and the added top strings really provide some extra tightness to prevent this style of dropped top string from hitting plastic.

As always, this is just one way to string a Huron Top String, so string one up and put your own spin on it if you would like.

Check my previous post for a run down on the why you would string a pocket this way and look out next week for my take on the Iroquois Top String.

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[rwp-review id=”1″]

Company: Warrior / Product: Dolomite 13 / Price: $144.99

The Warrior Dolomite 13 shaft is one of the lightest shafts on the market right now.  Designed to provide players with maximum performance without the weight of heavier metal blends, this shaft is both sturdy and good looking.

Appearance… +7.5

The Warrior Dolomite 13 is simple but with enough flair to show off that confidence when you need to. The shaft isn’t over the top or covered end to end in logos, graphics, or details.  The font draws your attention to the center of the stick and then the graphic fades to plain gunmetal on either side.  Sticking with the simplicity theme, Warrior only offers this shaft 3 color ways (red, royal blue, and black) so if you are one of those players who likes to have a setup that is different than anyone else on the field the dolomite may not be for you.  That said, if you are into letting your play do the talking and keeping your stick from screaming for attention, this thing should find itself in your gear bag.

Grip… +6.0

The Dolomite 13 sports a traditional octagon shape.  Paired with the shafts’ incredibly light weight, it sits comfortably in the palms of your hands.  Despite the textured look the graphic seems to have, this shaft is really smooth.  You’re definitely going to need a bit of tape if you are looking for a shaft that doesn’t slip around.  If you prefer tape to a textured shaft you will love the feel of the Dolomite 13, but if you are looking for something with built in grip, keep looking.

Weight… +10.0

At 6.1 ounces, Warrior set the bar pretty high in the weight category when they released the Dolomite 13.  The shaft is one of the lightest I have played with and yet it feels solid.  Warrior crafted an exclusive Altium alloy specifically for the Dolomite 13 to give it a superior strength to weight ratio.  Warrior wanted to create a shaft that held up like titanium shafts but didn’t make players feel like they were playing with a barbell and they delivered with this increasingly popular shaft.

 Durability… +10.0

Warrior claims that the Dolomite 13 shaft is 50% stronger than the Krypto Pro line of shafts.  Having played with the same Krypto Pro for three seasons in college, I can attest to the strength Warrior built into that family of shafts.  Outside of their titanium shafts, the Dolomite is easily Warrior’s strongest shaft on the market, making it obvious why it has become such a must have choice for a long list of NCAA and MLL players.

 Value… +7.5

While it kills me, lacrosse gear is getting more expensive every season.  The Warrior Dolomite 13 is a monster of a shaft.  It can handle whatever you are willing to try to throw at it on both ends of the field, and weighs less than just about any other shaft available today.  Right now the shaft sells for $144.99 (it was $179 last season) so if price equates to quality you can be sure you are buying a great stick.  The Dolomite 13 is one of Warriors best sellers, and it should be, but the stick takes a dock in the value category for raising the bar in the price category.

Overall… +8/10

This shaft is nearly perfect.  Light, clean, strong. Simply everything you look for in a shaft.  With a boost in the design of the grip and a sale price this thing is definitely worth the purchase.  I can’t wait to see what I can do with it this Fall!  Head over to Lacrosse.com to grab one for yourself.

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[rwp-review id=”1″]

Company: STX Lacrosse / Product: Proton Power / Price: $64.99

The original STX Proton Power has been a classic ever since Paul Rabil rocked the blue, black and white versions of the head at Hopkins.  While it was designed to score, this head can do it all. Here we check out the older version of the head, and will check out the newer version in short order!

Appearance… +7.5

The STX Proton Power is one of the more easily identifiable heads out there.  Since it’s inception, every version of the Proton has held true to the original shape, simple tweaking small features to fit the head to different positions and different players.  The head looks great and lends itself to both a mean pocket and a mean top string.  I really like the wavy top string holes.  While they are designed to reduce weight, they set the head up for a cool looking top string such as the triangle top string or a Chenango top string like the one I laced up in my head.

Stringing… +3.0

I love to string sticks so much that I am sure my friends on Facebook and Instagram are tired of looking at them.  To me, the perfect stringing head is one that gives you lots of options, both up top and on the sidewalls.  Unfortunately, I felt like the Proton Power fell flat in the stringing category.  With 10 holes down the side, the head is a little light on the stringing possibilities and one has to get crafty with the pocket.  In addition to having very few stringing holes, the head only has two bottom string holes.  STX originally designed the head with two to take out excess weight, but an unintended consequence is that you would have to get pretty creative if you ever wanted to put 4 leathers in the head.

Stiffness… +6.0

Despite what STX may suggest, Proton Power wouldn’t make much of a defensive head.  The head is as flexible as a hot yoga instructor making it a bad choice for defensive players looking to lay those big checks.  The head has great snap when shooting and handles the ball well when it is checked, that said, defensive players beware.

 Durability… +10.0

Due to it’s flexibility, the Proton Power can take quite a beating.  I spent a lot of time bending this head, pushing it side to side, shoving it into the ground, knocking it around with some friends and no matter what I did, the head seemed to always spring back to it’s original shape.  The ticker, single rail sidewall provides strength where you need it without making the head really rigid or really heavy. Usually when you think of a durable head you jump to a tank of a head like the STX Hammer.  The Proton Power proves that you don’t need bulk to be strong.

Value… +10.0

With new heads coming out every year, the Proton Power continues to be a top seller for STX.  Due to it’s age, the head is really reasonably priced.  At $64.99 you will be hard pressed to find a cheaper head that can provide a comparable level of performance.  While the head doesn’t meet college specs, it’s a must have for club or summer leagues.

Overall… 7.2/10

I love the STX Proton Power.  While it kills me to buy a head with so few stringing holes, I can see myself playing with the Proton Power for many seasons to come.  The head has an unbeatable price, looks sharp, and can take some serious punishment.  If you want something stiff, keep looking, but if you want a narrow head that handles the ball and delivers the performance you would expect from STX head over to Lacrosse.com to grab one for yourself.

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Over the next couple of weeks I will be putting together some tutorials for a few top strings that I like to call “Dropped Top Strings”. Of the dropped top strings that I will walk you through, the Iroquois Top String is probably the most popular:

A fairly popular spin on the Iroquois Top String is the Huron Top String.  The Huron, like the Iroquois, uses a dropped top string, but incorporates three pieces of top string to give a little extra strength to the top of the pocket:

There are a wide range of variations on these two styles of top strings (and I will be stringing up a few) but while they are fun to look at and a unique take on your personal stick, they are strung into sticks to serve a purpose. So, before I get into the how to string these types of pockets, I thought it would be important to give you a quick run down on the why you would string one of these for yourself.

While I am about to lay down some knowledge (right…) keep in mind that people string sticks specific ways, for specific purposes, to meet specific needs that they are looking to address. That being said, this is my why you would string these types of pockets, so you can take it or leave it, but its important to know how the pockets will impact your stick before you take the time to put one in. So without further delay…

Why String a Dropped Top String?

The main reason for the dropped top string is that by lowering the top of your mesh you are lowering the release point of your pocket.  Why would you want to do this you may ask? If you are a player that likes a low pocket (attack men who like to carry the ball one handed, or a defenders who like a deep, low pocket with low whip), you can significantly reduce the time it takes to get the ball out of your stick by lowering the release point. As an attack man, this is a big gain as you can maintain the hold and depth of your pocket while increasing the quickness of your release when shooting.

To me, the dropped top string seems like a big gain for an LSM too when quick passes in transition play a large role in your game. I have seen this style of pocket used by college players looking to meet the shooting string specs but maintaining a quick release, and I have seen it used by players who spend a lot of time on the crease as it makes a for a great quick sticking pocket. In addition to release benefits, the heads also look pretty cool. So if you are into a low pocket with a quick release, this style of pocket may be a great fit for you.

Why wouldn’t you string a dropped top string?

You definitely don’t want to string a dropped top style pocket if you are doing it just to look cool. Also, it takes a bit of time to dial in the release and throw of a dropped top pocket. A poorly strung dropped pocket leads to a pocket that hits plastic time and time again. If you are afraid of hitting plastic I would suggest trying to put in the more complex, but tighter Huron pocket.

A few other things to note is that players often find it harder to catch with this style of top string.  If you look at the pocket, the widest part of your stick is eliminated and becomes fairly tight/flat.  This translates to a less forgiving pocket when catching speedier passes up high in the stick. This type of pocket isn’t ideal for people that like a lot of hold in the upper half of their stick. While I am sure you could string a dropped top string with a high pocket, you will probably run into high whip issues as the release will be right at the hook of your high pocket.

Had enough talk? Check back next week for the first “dropped top string” tutorial and then go #stringyourown.

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Editor’s Note: Welcome back to another Top String Tuesday! The top string plays an integral role in the durability and effectiveness of every lacrosse player’s pocket, and we aim to showcase the many possibilities that exist. If you’re an avid stringer, always giving each string job your own creative twist, we’d love to hear from you. Drop us a line if you’re interested in being featured in our stringing section!

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The Triangle Top String (TTS) is easily one of my favorite top stringing methods. It’s a slight spin-off of a typical 9-diamond top string, but I have found that it keeps the mesh tighter to the top of your lacrosse head, which really helps prevent the ball from hitting plastic.

In addition to giving you a chance to customize your pocket a bit with two different variations, the Triangle Top String is actually rather easy to setup. Check out my stringing tutorial below. If you have any questions, or if you have a TTS that you think is worth showing off, let us know in the comment section!

Editor’s Note: Tell me you didn’t laugh the first time the dog’s head pops up behind Ratzke!

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The Chenango Top String has been blowing up around the lacrosse community lately. When I went searching for a tutorial on how to string one of my own I had a hard time finding one, so I figured I would put one together myself (be easy on me, this is my first tutorial).  Feel free to leave questions below and check back for more Top String Tutorials in the near future.

Created as a potential solution to the new college lacrosse head and shooting string rules, the Chenango Top String causes a really tight channel and a natural “U” in your shooters. It also takes out the fear in shooter placement/depth by creating a pocket that has the hold and the release that you would try to create using shooters.

Done right, the Chenango Top String will never hit plastic, and it will be incredibly consistent as well.

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[rwp-review id=”1″]

Company: STX Lacrosse / Product: Hammer U Head / Price: $99

STX has been on a mission this season, releasing some of the sport’s most impressive heads to date.  While you would expect them to design heads fit for offensive power houses like Kyle Harrison and Sam Bradman, STX threw down with their newest defensive head.  The Hammer U head is a monster.  If you are a big bad defenseman looking to do some work this year, this head is ready to make you a one man wrecking crew.  Check out STX’s product video and then read on to find out what makes this head so special.

Appearance… +7.5

STX pulled out all of the stops when designing the Hammer U head and they definitely didn’t slack off in the looks department.  The Hammer U head looks mean.  The 3 sidewall braces look like gills of a shark or some other kind of creature that you never want to cross.  The forward cant near the middle of the head creates an aggressive look and with 9 factory color options ranging from lime green to carolina blue it’s hard to find something you don’t like about the way this thing looks.

The only thing holding this thing back from a perfect score in the beauty pageant is it’s width.  While I may be biased as a middie, a head this wide looks a little minor league to me dragging the heads score down slightly.

Stringing… +10.0

A stick can never have too many holes on the sidewall.  With 13 sidewall holes on the Hammer U head, STX shows yet again that they understand a player’s desire to have some flexibility when twisting up their pocket.  In addition to the numerous sidewall options, the Hammer U head features 3 oversized top string holes near the top of the stick.  I love this feature on heads, especially when stringing traditional pockets, as it gives you the ability to put multiple pieces of crosslace/shooters through the holes without having to take up additional sidewall holes.

I love to string heads.  The Hammer U is a stringers dream, so feeling a little inspired I tried out a new pocket and couldn’t be happier with how it turned out.

Stiffness… +10.0

If you can break this head I bet STX would give you your money back.  This thing is about as stiff as it gets.  The head is thick and the 3 sidewall braces provide extra support for ground balls and stick checks.  STX’s design team put this thing through a series of tests geared specifically for the types of blows and bends a defenders head will go through and what they came up with was one of the industries strongest heads.  Unfortunately, with the increased strength comes an increase in weight, and while STX tried their best to reduce weight by hollowing out the sidewall braces and areas around the throat, this thing feels like a sledgehammer.  If weight were a category in this review this head would score in the negatives.

Durability… +10.0

The Hammer U features STX’s C-Channel design which gives the head added flexibility for ground balls and checks while keeping the head stiff and rigid when you are laying the lumber.  The utter thickness of this head means that it is reinforced to the max.  If you are not concerned about weight and want a head that is ready to both lay and take a beating, this head will be yours to rock for many seasons to come.

Value… +5.0

The value category is always the hardest for me to grade.  With lacrosse equipment technology reaching all time highs I totally understand that prices are going to start hiking upwards too. That said, for $99 this head is pretty expensive, STX’s second most expensive head in fact, especially for something that weighs as much as it does.

I think that STX has created a fantastic defensive head.  Maybe even the best in lacrosse right now.  I doubt this thing will break, and the checks you can lay with the Hammer U will have offensive players hesitating to move within a sticks length of their defenders but again, I have a hard time giving gear high marks in the value category when their price tag turns me away from even checking them out.

Overall: 8.4/10

Overall the Hammer U is battle ready and would be worth the investment if you are interested in a defensive head that is going to last you a number of seasons.  With multiple factory color options and a wide variety in stringing possibilities, this head can be customized to your exact liking.  Unique features like two screw holes, enlarged top string sidewall holes, and STX’s C-Channel design make this thing a stick worth a second look and while the price tag is a little high I think the pros outweigh the price for serious defensemen.

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